HicksnChicks BlossomsnMore

06/08/2026

Most perennial failures have nothing to do with your green thumb. They have everything to do with light.

You can water consistently, amend your soil, deadhead faithfully, and still end up with a struggling, stunted plant that barely blooms. Nine times out of ten, the real culprit is a light mismatch. A sun-lover crammed into a shady corner. A shade-dweller scorched by afternoon sun. The plant isn't failing you. It's just in the wrong spot.

This guide breaks it down simply. Four light conditions, 20 perennial favorites, and the Latin names so you can actually look them up before you buy. As with anything, there is some flexibility, but here are some solid guidelines to follow.

Full sun (6+ hours of direct light) is where your Lavender, Echinacea, Peonies, Black-eyed Susans, and Sedum 'Autumn Joy' will absolutely thrive. These are the workhorses of a sunny border, and they reward neglect the moment they have the right conditions.

Partial sun (3 to 6 hours) opens the door to some of the most beautiful plants in the perennial world: Astilbe, Bleeding Heart, Coral Bells, Foxglove, and Bigleaf Hydrangea. This middle ground is actually incredibly versatile, and many gardeners overlook how much they can grow here.

Partial shade (bright light but no direct sun) is where Hostas, Ferns, Columbine, Lungwort, and Primrose quietly do their best work. These plants don't need sun to shine.

Full shade is not a dead zone. Hellebore, Trillium, Jack-in-the-pulpit, Lily of the Valley, and Solomon's Seal were literally built for it.

The tagline at the bottom of this graphic says it all: right plant, right light, less struggle, more flowers. Print that out and tape it to your garden journal.

Before you plant anything this season, check the light your space actually receives, not the light you wish it received. Count the hours. Note where the sun hits and when. Then choose accordingly.

Your garden will thank you. 🌿🌸

06/08/2026

If you are looking for one flower that delivers maximum color with minimum fuss from early summer straight through to frost, zinnias are the answer. They are one of the most rewarding annuals any gardener can grow, and they perform beautifully whether you are working with a full garden bed, a container on a patio, a hanging basket, or a cutting garden. Here is everything you need to grow them well. 🌸

Start from seed directly in the ground

Most gardeners grow zinnias by direct sowing, and for good reason. Zinnias have sensitive root systems that do not respond well to transplanting, and seeds germinate so quickly in warm soil that there is very little advantage to starting them indoors anyway. Wait until after your last frost date when soil temperatures have reached at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit, sow seeds about a quarter inch deep, and expect germination within five to seven days. Thin seedlings to their final spacing once they reach a few inches tall rather than skipping that step, because crowded zinnias are significantly more prone to powdery mildew and produce fewer blooms.

Full sun is non-negotiable

Zinnias evolved in hot, sunny Mexican highlands and they need a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sun daily to perform at their best. In anything less, plants grow tall and leggy, flower production drops, and disease pressure increases. South or west-facing garden beds and container locations are ideal. This is genuinely one plant where more sun always equals better results.

Spacing and airflow prevent the biggest problem

Powdery mildew is the most common frustration with zinnias, and it is almost entirely preventable with proper spacing. The infographic recommends 12 to 18 inches between plants depending on the variety, and that spacing is not a suggestion. Crowded plants create humid, stagnant air conditions right at leaf level, which is exactly what powdery mildew thrives in. Larger varieties like Benary's Giant benefit from the full 18 inches. More compact varieties can get away with 12. When in doubt, give them more space than you think they need.

Water at the base, never overhead

Wet foliage is a fast track to fungal problems with zinnias. Water deeply at the base of the plant rather than using overhead sprinklers, and water in the morning if any overhead moisture is unavoidable so foliage has time to dry before evening. Young plants prefer consistently moist soil, but once established, zinnias have reasonable drought tolerance and will handle short dry periods without significant stress.

Deadheading and pinching back are the keys to continuous bloom

Zinnias are annuals with a biological drive to flower, set seed, and complete their lifecycle as quickly as possible. When you allow spent blooms to fully mature and go to seed on the plant, flower production slows noticeably as the plant shifts its energy toward seed development. Removing spent flowers regularly keeps the plant in active blooming mode all season. More importantly, cut or pinch stems back to just above a set of leaves rather than snapping off only the flower head. This stimulates branching from lower on the stem and produces multiple new flowering shoots rather than a single replacement bloom at the top. The University of Illinois Extension notes that consistent deadheading and pinching of zinnias through the season can more than double total bloom production compared to unmanaged plants.

Feed regularly for peak performance

Container zinnias especially need regular fertilizing because they have access only to the nutrients in their potting mix. A balanced, water-soluble fertilizer applied every four to six weeks keeps growth vigorous and flower production strong all season. Avoid high-nitrogen formulas that push leafy growth at the expense of blooms.

Plant in full sun, give them room to breathe, keep water off the foliage, and cut from them consistently. Do those four things and zinnias will give you more color than almost anything else in the summer garden. 🌺

06/08/2026

Deadheading makes a bigger difference than I expected ✂️ A few things I usually do:
🌸 Snip faded flowers before they start putting energy into seeds.
🌼 Zinnias, marigolds, cosmos, petunias, and dahlias usually respond really well.
🌿 Use clean scissors or pruners instead of pulling if the stems are tough.
💧 I like deadheading after watering or in the cooler part of the day.
🐝 I don’t remove every single bloom because pollinators still need flowers too.
It’s a small garden chore, but it can keep flower beds looking fresh for so much longer.

06/07/2026

🇺🇸 Red, White & BOOM! Rutland’s biggest Fourth of July celebration is back!! 🇺🇸

Join us at the Vermont State Fairgrounds this Fourth of July for a day of family fun, community spirit, a spectacular fireworks show, and so much more! Check out the poster for all the details! We’ll see you there! 🇺🇸✨

06/02/2026

A fresh bouquet may not solve everything, but it does make the world feel significantly less rude. 🌸💗

06/02/2026

We’ve officially reached the gardening season where getting down is a commitment negotiation with your knees. 😆🌱

06/02/2026

06/02/2026

Butterflies need more than pretty flowers 🦋 A few natives I’d love in a pollinator bed:
🌸 Milkw**d for monarch caterpillars.
🌼 Goldenrod for late-season nectar.
💜 Joe-Pye w**d for height and big blooms.
🌿 Coneflower and black-eyed Susan for easy summer color.
🐝 Bee balm for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
The best part is that many of these come back year after year, so the garden gets better with time.

06/02/2026

No- Mow-May is over. Time to break out the lawn mower! Ecosystem imperative. Maybe we will plant a butterfly garden in the future ?