04/06/2026
Today offered a glimpse into one of the most fascinating new chapters in the world of wine: Hokkaido.
Long known for its dramatic landscapes, cool climate, and exceptional seafood, Japan’s northernmost island is increasingly attracting attention from wine lovers around the globe. Here, between rolling hills and the waters of the Tsugaru Strait, a new generation of vineyards is exploring what Japanese terroir can truly achieve.
One of the most exciting projects is the partnership between Burgundy and Hokkaido through Étienne de Montille and the renowned Domaine de Montille. Drawn by the region’s cool climate and growing potential for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the family established vineyards overlooking Hakodate, bringing generations of Burgundian expertise to one of Japan’s most promising wine regions.
A particular privilege today was tasting the very first vintage ever produced from this remarkable project. Beyond the wine itself, it felt like witnessing the beginning of a story. The wines combine the precision and elegance associated with Burgundy with the freshness, purity, and unique character of Hokkaido’s maritime climate.
Looking out across the young vineyards toward Hakodate Bay, it becomes clear why so many producers are investing in this region. Cool summers, long daylight hours, volcanic soils, and constant ocean influences create conditions unlike anywhere else in Japan.
As Japanese wine continues its rapid rise on the international stage, Hokkaido is emerging as one of its most exciting frontiers. And today, with a glass of the first vintage in hand, the future looked very bright indeed.