06/03/2023
Regency fashion
This article is part of a series that provides a historical background to the Bridgerton Summer Ball, 11 March 2023. See fantess.com
Fashion in the Regency era, 1795 to 1837, emanated from France and Britain. Following the French Revolution of 1789, a revolt against the aristocracy, no one wanted to appear as if they belonged to the aristocracy. There was no revolution in Britain, but the British aristocracy feared the same fate as the French. As a result, fashion became simpler; out with the wigs, lace and brocades and in with the classical style, that is, of ancient Greece and Rome. A brocade is a raised pattern sewn into the underlying fabric.
The high-waisted graceful styles of early 19th century are known as the Empire style. The fabric was light such as muslin, which revealed the figure underneath. While such costumes suited the warmer climate of the Mediterranean, in northern Europe, undergarments such as pantaloons and petticoats were necessary for warmth. In winter, heavier fabrics such as velvet, cotton, linen and fine wool may be used.
Dress colours were white or pastel. As white costume soiled more easily, it conferred a higher status, as it needed changing more frequently.
Eventually, more ornation crept back in. Between 1804 and 1807 the classical robes developed an eastern exotic feel with Etruscan and Egyptian decoration of embroidered borders. The eastern patterns first appeared from gifts Napoleon gave to his Empress Josephine after his visits to Egypt. Soon everyone copied the items. Empress Josephine was a fashion leader of her time.
The waistline over the Regency era started high, just below the breasts, and became lower taking on a V shape. After 1825 sleeves billowed to huge proportions. The late Regency era has another moniker, the Romantic Era (1825-1835).
Hair is pulled up usually in a bun. A part in the centre was common. Small curls and waves fringed the face in a random, natural look. What was considered beautiful in that era was a natural no-cosmetic look, no tan, no freckles and pale skin.
Men had neither beard nor mustache, but did have long or short sideburns. Modern films depict Regency men as clean-shaven, but the reality was they shaved only a couple of times per week. In which case, they would have a stubble much of the time. Hair was short, not parted and somewhat windswept.
Lace, embroidery and embellishment disappeared. By the end of the period, pleated shirt cuffs and front disappeared.
Men wore breeches, pantaloons or trousers. You wear breeches when riding and so they might be made from buckskin for durability. Breeches extended below the knee. Below that were either boots or long socks and shoes.
Pantaloons are close-fitting, extending below the knee though not all the way to the ankle. Trousers were looser fitting and extended to the ankle. During the period, breeches and then pantaloons fell out of fashion.
The fly as we now call it was then a rectangular flap buttoned at the top. The derivation of the name fly is nothing to do with the flying insect, rather it is a flap of material that flies in the wind. Though the modern fly does not flap, the term has remained.
For other attire, jackets had tails and waistcoats were short.
For hats, men wore top-hats and women wore bonnets and hats.
Women’s hats often contained lace and, in the earlier part of the era, were not wide-brimmed. For warmth, women wore shawls, short jackets and fur-lined long coats called pelisses.
